Coleman-Deming Ski on Mount Baker

Cam, cruising up toward the Baker-Colfax saddle

I'd been itching to get back on Mount Baker since the early spring ascent Goran and I had done back in March.  The real desire was to get on the North Ridge or Coleman Headwall, but a ski tour was in the cards for this trip, so a repeat of the Coleman-Deming Route was an easy choice for me and Cam.

We got a pretty leisurely start, leaving Seattle around 6am.  Since we'd both done the route before, there was no summit lust driving us upwards—we focused on enjoying the incredible visibility and better-than-expected skiing.

We were able to park Cam's Subaru within a 10-minute walk of the trailhead.  Having read some trip reports suggesting minimal snow coverage on the trail, we made the right call to wear running shoes and pack our skis to tree line.  The initial Heliotrope Ridge was pretty slick and icy, but not so bad that we had to put ski crampons on.  Things mellowed out above the first steep section and we then just motored our way up.  Ok, perhaps it was Cam motoring up and me keeping up.

Regardless, things went smoothly and we reached the base of the Roman Wall at about 1pm.  The final section looked more icy and less awesome for skiing, so we scampered over the initial
 steep ridge start to catch a view to the South and then called it good.  The conditions on the way down were not stellar, but the views certainly were, so we were perfectly happy.  We made it to our running shoes pretty fast, picked them up, tried to ski a ways down the trail, and eventually gave up, putting the skis back on our packs and tromping out the rest of the way in our shoes.

At the trailhead, Cam stopped to put his skis back on and I didn't so we had a bit of a race to the car.  I won.  By about a minute.  Boom.  I might have been jogging...

East Ridge on Eldorado Peak

Ben, coming down from the top

Our original objective for the weekend had been Glacier Peak, but we did a little research and it sounded like the road was still washed out, requiring multiple days to rock an ascent.  Since Cam was likely on the hook for daddy daycare on Sunday, we hit the road Friday night to snag a scarce few hours of sleep at the trailhead and fire Eldorado.

Our stop in Darrington to provision up with Starbucks Moca Frappuccinos could have been the smartest thing we did all weekend.  We rolled into the trailhead at about midnight and set up our sleeping bags on the gravel next to the truck, then attempted to fall asleep until 2:45am.  Some rest was had, but not much sleep, as a number of other parties rolled in over the next couple hours and broke the silence of our otherwise still, star-filled night.

2:45am was painful, but the cold Frappuccinos, cinnamon buns, and various other snacky items really pulled us through.  We ate and slowly packed up, hitting the rough climber's trail at about 3:30am.  In our sleepless stupor and with heavy, awkward skis on our backs, the section through the woods felt a bit like being a human pinball.  The trail was pretty steep and let us make great upward progress.  By the time we hit the snow, we'd gained around 3,000 feet of elevation from the trailhead.

With skis on, we made quick progress except for the few sections that were steep enough and icy enough that we slipped around quite a bit.  Ski crampons would have been an awesome addition for sure.  We ducked over the ridge at about 6,200 feet, had a quick boot pack down the far side, and then kept skinning up the long snow field until the crest and large bowl below the summt.  Skinning up the long ridge to the summit wasn't too steep and things had started to loosen up a bit by then, so we ended up skinning to about 500 feet from the summit.

Right at the spot where we started to take off our skis and throw on our rope and crampons, we ran into another party of two—the only other party we saw that day.  Turned out one of the guys was an old friend from Dartmouth who used to live two doors away during our Freshman year.  What a small world, especially considering that he doesn't even live in Washington and that we were up near the summit around 9:00am.

The knife-edge ridge finish was much shorter than I would have expected and we quickly finished things up, enjoying the view on such a perfect day, and without a ton of wind.  Our celebration was short-lived since we all wanted to get down as quickly as we could.  Evidence of wet slides was everywhere on our ascent and we knew that temperatures were going to be exceptionally high.

Cam and J'berg

The vast majority of our descent involved awesome skiing, never too steep and never too icy.  A short skate across the basin got us to a long section of skiing down the snowfield which was fun enough that I let some whoops and hollers out, which is saying something for a guy who doesn't ski much.  The short boot-pack section led us to mashed potato snow for the rest of the way out. Things were sloughing quite a bit and our knees were getting really tired, but we made it out safely and experienced the joy of removing our boots, but the pain of strapping them and our skis to our backs.

In not too long a time, we made it down the pinball section (things were a bit easier with daylight), and got back to the truck around 12:30pm.  Celebratory beers with Ben and his partner were especially tasty and we were back in Seattle in no time (or at least it felt that way since I ate a ton of Ben & Jerry's and passed out.  Thanks for driving, Cam!

Coleman-Deming Route on Mount Baker

Goran having a blast skiing down good snow on the Roman Wall

With the promise of an unseasonably awesome early spring weekend in Seattle, Goran and I convened at work on Friday afternoon to discuss potential objectives.  After considering a few routes, we flipped to Mount Baker.  We couldn't find a single early season report for the North Ridge, but there were plenty for the Coleman-Deming route, including one from the previous weekend.  The conditions seemed right, so we made the call to leave town on Friday night and sleep at the trailhead (or as close as we could get).  After a leisurely dinner at home and some quick packing, we hit the road around 9pm, reaching the end of the road just shy of midnight.  We'd brought camping gear, but the ground was wet and we were only going to squeeze out about 4 hours, so we set up our sleeping bags in the front seats, laid them flat, and passed out.

4:15am came quickly and smacked us both hard enough that gearing up was a pretty slow endeavor.  Nevertheless, we had our bags packed with all sorts of gear (crevasse rescue and avalanche), and began skinning up the road.  We were about three miles from the trailhead and made it there under headlamp, as the ambient light slowly rose.  The trail was pretty easily identifiable as it looked like a few parties had headed up the day or night before.  We followed their tracks and paralleled them in places where the tracks had frozen into a bobsled run.  Conditions were still pretty bulletproof at tree-line when we got our first glimpse of the summit.  We'd come a significant portion of the distance at that point and treated ourselves to a nice little snack.

We headed straight up the ridge from the tree-line break and actually found it easiest to go directly up rather than switchback, given the icy conditions and lack of ski crampons.  The sun was just peeking over from the far side of the mountain at that point and made for some pretty dramatic, long shadows.  The snow thankfully started to soften up as we made it over one crest and then followed the skin track climber's left up a steeper section.  As we made it over the next crest, we could see a bunch of ski descent tracks and another party higher up the Coleman Glacier.  We also passed someone's high camp, which looked like a cozy spot on the snow-covered glacier, relatively well protected and with an amazing view to the North and West.

From this spot high on the Coleman Glacier, we stayed up toward the Black Buttes and Colfax Peak, twisting through the icefalls and avoiding any crevasses that all seemed to be chock-full of snow.  A few more sections of easy skinning brought us to the Coleman-Deming Saddle and much steeper terrain up the Pumice Ridge and Roman Wall.  We started skinning and quickly realized that boot-packing would be necessary.  The change in style of motion was greatly appreciated—my hip-flexors had been on fire and not well traveled on skins so far this season, so putting the skis on my pack and taking step after step worked out quite well.  We met a few other parties on the Roman Wall and had at least one break to down some calories.It was a long day already at that point and we were both aware that it was going to be a fun, but long descent.

After booting up the rest of the Roman Wall, we slapped the skis back on and made the easy traverse to the summit.  A number of other parties were up there and we all traded off doing obligatory photo shoots.  It was a gorgeous day with a little bit of haze and the North Cascades were out in force.  Shuksan was especially prominent in our view, but we could see Glacier and all the way down to Rainier.  Whenever I get on one of these summits, I can't help but realize that there truly is a lifetime of climbing in the area.  Once we both started cooling off, we skinned back to the Roman Wall, nearly heading too far to skier's right before we realized our mistake and dropped in.  The first few turns were a bit spicy for me, but it quickly opened up to really fun skiing on snow that had loosened up a bit, but wasn't wet.  It was awesome, especially with the view down to the saddle and glaciers in front of us.

We continued skiing down and never needed our skins again.  The section at the top of the Coleman Glacier was especially powdery and fun—we spent a while whooping and loving the experience despite aching quads and lots of unnecessary gear in our packs, weighing us down.  In an effort to find an easier way out, we traversed higher than we'd come in on the trail in hopes that we could avoid skiing out the tight, winding path.  Unfortunately, the snow had warmed significantly, but still had a bit of a crust.  The combination was really tough for me and I proceeded to eat it a number of times into the soft snow.  We eventually made it back down to the main trail and found the ski out from there to be surprisingly easy.  I snow-plowed to glory with some total survival skiing.  The final bit on the road back to the car was exceptionally easy going, but still tough given how tired my legs were.  I stopped a few times to shake them out before coasting to the car and ripping off my boots.  We were elated and commiserated about our feet that felt like hamburger…we'd done about 9,000ft of elevation gain over the day and had covered just shy of 20 miles.  It was a big one.

With celebratory beers complete and shoes removed, we began the drive home, having the standard, jubilant, retrospective conversation people have after big days in the mountains.  It was a great day and first climb with Goran.