South Spur on Mount Adams

After gazing North at Mount Adams from Hood two weekends ago, the decision had already been made in my head: with our first good weather window, we'd make a break from work early on Friday to head down and charge the mountain.

Thunderstorms and questionable weather were forecast for Seattle and the North Cascades, but Adams looked quite clear, so we made the long drive out 90, down past Yakima, across toward Hood River, then up to Trout Creek before busting onto the forest roads that brought us (after a mild missed turn incident and Civic off-road excursion) to Cold Springs Campground at the trailhead.  It was packed when we finally rolled in around 11pm--it seemed that every nook our headlights passed over was filled with a car or tent.  We eventually found a spot on somewhat even ground and hit the hay with a wake-up planned for 6am.

We'd heard that things were a bit icy in the morning and that skinning would be tough until later in the day, so there wasn't much motivation to get a super-alpine start.  We leisurely ate breakfast, packed up the ski gear, and started hiking up the trail in our running shoes at about 7:45am.  This was definitely the right method--we were fast and comfy all the way up to a large bowl from which the snow cover seemed consistent to the top.

The last time I'd clicked into the AT setup was on Rock Mountain with Cam--an experience that did not instill confidence in my strength on fat skis.  Nevertheless, I felt pretty stable despite sloppy snow and some steeper slopes.  We quickly rose up to the main plateau below the ramp up to Piker's Peak.  Skinning was still easy up to the base of the ramp, but it was clear that the established boot-pack was going to be a more efficient way to gain vertical, so we strapped the skis to our packs and started huffing our way up.

With Piker's at 11,600ft and a home at sea level, the altitude started to hurt us all a bit as we slogged up the ramp.  There were some other people on skis who were switch-backing their way up at about the same speed we were on foot, so we didn't feel terrible about keeping the skis off.

A healthy snack and break at Piker's set us up well for the final summit push.  The snow quality from the summit to Piker's looked pretty poor, so we left the skis there and boot-packed our way up the final 700 ft of vertical to the true summit.  We were all a bit tired, but not too worse for the wear and had an awesome time up at the top, with views of Hood, St. Helens, and Rainier.  Not too shabby.

From the summit down to Piker's was slippery plunge-stepping, but not terrible.  We eventually made it to the skis, locked in our heels, and started the quad-screaming descent.  The first pitch was relatively steep for most of us, but the snow had softened quite a bit by that point, so we were able to navigate our way down the ramp to easier ground, which was incredibly fun.  Nothing was too sun-cupped or variable, so we were able to open it up a bit and really enjoy the skiing (taking copious breaks to let the quads relax a bit).  The rest of the descent was really quick, with mostly consistent snow until well below where we'd switched over on the way up.

Putting the running shoes on was a religious experience.  We quickly hiked the rest of the way out, packed up, and drove straight to BZ Corner where we patroned the local saloon and replenished much-needed calories.  Win.

Sunshine Route On Mount Hood

Psyched at Cloud Cap after climbing the route

After two other attempts on this route last summer, both ending at the bergschrund due to conditions, the third try was the charm.  Great success!

James and I busted out of Seattle a bit early on Friday with the promise of perfect weather and excellent conditions for volcano climbing.  We arrived at the Tilly Jane trailhead around dusk and geared up.  Since we didn't plan to make it to Cloud Cap until after 11pm and wanted to get started from there around 2am, we decided to bring one sleeping pad and bag between the two of us, no tent, no cookware, and minimal climbing gear.

Light and fast, we hiked the 3.9 miles from Tilly Jane to Cloud Cap in about 1 hour 40 minutes.  We quickly set up "camp" on the deck of Cloud Cap.  The moon was so bright that we had to pull our hats down over our eyes to get any sleep.  It wasn't frigid, but it also wasn't terribly warm.  Our sleeping bag strategy worked decently well for getting a few cat naps in, but 2am came very quickly.  We opted for a quick 30-minute snooze session.

Packing was fast and we were on the move by 2:45am, quickly reaching the moraine and making our way up to the large cairn marking the descent to Eliot Glacier.  Since this was James' first glacier travel experience, we opted to rope up right away and stay that way for the rest of the ascent.  It wasn't necessary, but gave me a bit more peace of mind.  Something about hearing her tell her mom on the phone on our way down that we'd "be safe."

On our way up

Once we'd crossed the Glacier, made it up the ramp on the far side, and started up the base of the Snow Dome, the sun just began to peek over the horizon.  Adams, Rainier, and Saint Helens were all lit up in alpenglow.  It was pretty incredible.  We stopped there for breakfast, taking in the first rays of red, then orange light.

The Snow Dome was pretty grueling.  Warm temperatures had left it pretty soft, even at sunrise, so we post-holed quite a bit in our mountaineering boots.  We could tell that things would be sloppy on the descent.

After a quick break at the top of the Snow Dome, we headed up past Anderson Rock, skirting it to the right, just above a crevasse that was opening up at the base of the rock.  That section had felt super-steep in the past, but wasn't too bad this time, due to the loose, heavy snow.  We quickly made it up past the rock and over the next few crevasses, putting us right below the bergschrund.

Having been skunked here a couple of times before, I was keen on finding a way bast the berg.  We went high, just beneath it, to see if there was a snow bridge, but found nothing, so we dropped down along it and then hit the ridge line.  Thankfully, there was good snow to the left of the rock and we were able to wade our way skyward, gaining the final ridge.

Conditions were perfect to head up the ridge--what looked to have been pretty icy earlier in the season had softened enough to punch light steps in.  We put crampons on here and continued up the ridge, taking a few quick breaks, and gaining the summit by 10:05am.

We had the place to ourselves for a whole half-hour and took a few glory shots with the American Flag up there.  It seemed that the early crew on the South side had already left and the later crew hadn't yet made it.  We could see them like ants, coming up the Hogsback.  It was a great reminder of how awesome it was to have the North Face all to ourselves for the entire day.

The descent was fast.  We kept crampons on until the Snow Dome and then glissaded all the way down to Eliot Glacier, quickly crossed, got back on the moraine, and headed to Cloud Cap by 1:15pm.  We hydrated and dried our gear a bit on the porch for a half-hour.  The desire to take a nap was strong, but we motivated to put our running shoes back on and get down.

We were pretty smoked by that point and finished the final hike out a bit slowly, getting to Gus (James' Tacoma) just before 3pm.

Summit with an especially photogenic American flag

The Tooth

Bret on the last moves

Thanks for getting all independent back in the day, America.  You afforded me the opportunity to have Wednesday off from work and get up The Tooth in perfect spring conditions with great friends.

We arrived at the Alpental parking lot early enough to hurt a bit, but just late enough to see 3 or 4 parties leave just ahead of us.  Balls.  The approach was still a bit snowy all the way to Source Lake and completely snow-covered from there up to Pineapple Pass.  We had a great time making it up some of the steep snow without having to put on crampons or use ice axes.  Jake and I picked up some sticks to self-arrest with, just in case.  It was pretty comical.

After waiting for all of the parties ahead of us to start up the route, we began the 4-ish pitches of barely rope-worthy climbing.  Despite the easy grade, the moves were pretty fun, the position was great, and the views were excellent.  We summited, took some pictures, rapped the route, busted back to the car, and made it back to Seattle in plenty of time for some grilling and fireworks.  Go 'Merica.